Caistealan eile
Northumberland 2 – Caistealan eile / Other castles
Am mìos sa chaidh sgrìobh mi mu Chaisteal Bhamburgh. An turas seo tha mi a’ dol air adhart le cuspair Northumberland, a’ toirt sùil air na caistealean eile a chunnaic sinn, dìreach gus barrachd dhiubh a thàladh dhan sgìre bhrèagha seo!
Mar Bhamburgh tha Caisteal Dhunstanburgh (14mh linn) air a’ chladaich, suidhichte gu drùidhteach air na creagan, le seallaidhean farsaing air tìr is muir. Ach ‘s e tobhta a tha san fhear seo, gu ìre mhòr, ged a tha gu leòr na sheasamh fhathast gus dol a-steach, agus ‘s urrainn dhut dìreadh suas sna tùir. Chan eil e ri ruigsinn ach air chois, le ceum bho Chraster, mu 1 mhìle sìos an cladach, mar sin chan eil e cho freagarrach do luchd-tadhail ciorramach, ged a bha gu leòr de theaghlaich ann le clann agus bugaidhean, agus còin. ‘S e cuairt bhrèagha a th’ ann, agus àite glè mhath do chuirm-cnuic. https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/dunstanburgh-castle/
Caisteal eile a bu toil leam riamh, ‘s e sin Warkworth, prìomh làrach teaghlach cumhachdach nam Percys thar nan linntean. Ged a tha e gu ìre na thobhta, tha barrachd is gu leòr na sheasamh fhathast, gu h-àraidh an tùr tomadach àrd, aon de na tùir mheadhan-aoiseach as slàine (sa chruth bhunasach) a tha air fhàgail, shaoilinnse. ‘S urrainn dhut dol suas is sìos na diofar staidhrichean cloiche dha na trì làran eadar-dhealaichte làn seilearan, chidsinean, tallaichean, fiù ‘s an caibeal. Tha cruth dìonadach na làraich fhèin furasta ri aithneachadh, is na ballaichean, taigh-geata, togalaich-stòrais agus staing a’ chaisteil uile deagh-ghlèidhte. Agus mar bu chòir le caistealan, tha sealladh soilleir brèagha bhon mhullach anns gach àirde. Chaidh an caisteal a thogail air motte, cnoc daonna-dhèanta, le bruach chas dhan abhainn. Làrach sgoinneil dhan fheadhainn a tha measail air eachdraidh, agus do chlann. Feumaidh ùine gu leòr a bhith agad, ge-tà! https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/warkworth-castle-and-hermitage/history/description/
Bha Lindisfarne, an caisteal mu dheireadh air an do thadhail sinn, dùinte airson a’ gheamhraidh, ach is fhiach dol ann airson na làraich suaicheanta i-fhèin, is e air binnean cas am measg faichean is boglaichean rèidh an Eilein Naoimh timcheall air. Dùn meadhan-aoseach eile, beag ach le cudromachd ro-innleachdail is seallaidhean thairis air tìr is muir, chaidh a chleachdadh rè nan cogaidhean an aghaidh nan Albannach, agus bha gearasdan ann fhathast gu tràth san 18mh linn. Ann an 1901 ghabh neach-gnìomhachais Edward Hudson an t-aonta air, agus thòisich esan ath-dhealbhachadh mionaideach a’ chaisteil le Edwin Luyens, ailtire ainmeil, agus lios ballach air a chruthachadh le Gertrude Jekyll. Cuairt tlachdmhor bho bhaile beag Lindisfarne. Chan eil an t-eilean ri ruigsinn ach le rathad thairis air fadhlain (cùm sùil air na h-uairean fosgailte!). https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/north-east/lindisfarne-castle/history-of-lindisfarne-castle
Tha gu leòr de chaistealan is thaighean mòra eile ann an Northumberland, ri taobh a’ chladaich no a-staigh san tìr, mar Alnwick is Cragside, is sinne gun gu leòr de dh’ùine gus am faicinn – ach bidh iad ann fhathast airson turais eile. 😊
NB Tha làraich English Heritage saor do bhuill Alba Aosmhor, agus National Trust do bhuill NTS.
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Last month I wrote about Bamburgh Castle, and this month I’ll continue the Northumberland topic with a look at the other castles we visited, just to tempt even more of you to this lovely area!
Like Bamburgh, 14th C Dunstanburgh is on the coast, perched impressively on a clifftop with great views all round (handy for defence). Otherwise however it’s completely different, as it’s mainly a ruin, though still has large sections you can go into, and towers to go up. It and can only be accessed on foot along a path from Craster, about a mile down the coast, so sadly not suitable for more disabled visitors, though there were plenty of families with buggies, and dogs. It’s a lovely walk, and a great place for a picnic. https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/dunstanburgh-castle/
Another old favourite I revisited was Warkworth. This partially-ruined castle, seat of the powerful Percy family through the centuries, must have one of the most complete, huge, mediaeval keeps still left in its original form – you can still go up and down on the various stone staircases to three floors full of cellars, kitchens, halls, even the chapel. The defensive site layout is still clear with walls, gatehouse and ditch well-preserved, and as ever with castles, there are great views from the top. It’s built on a motte, an artificial mound, with a steep drop to the river. For history fans, and for children, it’s great site to visit. Leave plenty of time for it, though! https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/warkworth-castle-and-hermitage/history/description/
The last castle we went to, Lindisfarne, was unfortunately closed for the winter, but its iconic site alone is wth seeing, on a steep conical hill in the flat fields and marshes of the surrounding Holy Island. Another mediaeval fortress, small but strategically important with views over both the North Sea and the mainland, it saw service during the wars against Scotland, and remained garrisoned till the early 19 C. In 1901 it was leased by businessman Edward Hudson, who had it completely redesigned by famous architect Edwin Lutyens, with a walled flower garden designed by Gertrude Jekyll. A lovely coastal walk from Lindifarne village. The island can only be reached via a road over a tidal ford – keep an eye on the “causeway open” times! https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/north-east/lindisfarne-castle/history-of-lindisfarne-castle
There are plenty of other castles and “big hooses” in Northumberland too, on the coast and inland, which we didn’t have time for, like Alnwick and Cragside – but they’ll still be there for another time. 😊
NB: English Heritage sites are free to Historic Scotland members, and National Trust to NTS members.
